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THE BVIs: ST. THOMAS: SURFSIDE A look a place where people want to send pictures to their friends and say "this is where I'm spending my vacation!"
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Welcome to The Virgin Gorda Baths!
It is one of the must-visit places in the British Virgin Islands, part exhilarating experience, part adventure and all thrills. It's The Baths, and while one might be tempted to think European spa, it's a section of Virgin Gorda that is a collection of odd-shaped rocks by the shore that has created cave-like wading pools. It starts after wading on shore after hopping out of the dingy (there are a few dingy balls) and emerging on one of the most beautiful beaches in all the islands, with some of the softest sand to be found anywhere. The views are spectacular in every direction.
For those who want a little refreshment, there's a little bar – little more than a plank of wood, actually – that sells beer.
The entrance is next to a sign on the beach next to a giant boulder. The space is too narrow to fit through even with a backpack on, so it's a tight squeeze and then it's on Devil's Bay Trail.
And that's just the beginning. The Baths has several tight spaces so it takes a bit of twisting and turning – and climbing up either rocks or small ladders – to go through the boulders. Suddenly, though, the space opens up and you emerge in ankle-deep or even knee-deep water. This occurs time and time again, and is one of the great rewards of The Baths.
The trail winds and twists and winds up at Devil's Beach, a piece of paradise if ever there was one. . It's a little cove with water so clear it's possible to see the fish swimming without a mask. A giant boulder stands proudly at the edge, challenging people to climb to the top.
But the journey is not finished. The ultimate goal is a bar/restaurant called Top of the Baths Restaurant and Lounge. And here's where things turn a bit strange, for the landscape suddenly becomes like a desert with cactus and wildlife along the side of the path. It's impossible to see the summit and while it's hardly a difficult climb, it does take 20-30 minutes to complete. Well, that just builds up the thirst and hunger. The Top of the Baths has a small pool and good enough food and drink. Menu items include conch fritters, wraps, sandwiches and salads for lunch. It's also open for breakfast and dinner. The service, however, is so slow they should put a phone at the beginning of the trail to call ahead; once you arrive it's possible the order will be ready. Thankfully, there is an alternative route back to the beginning, and that only takes about 10 minutes.
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