Amoudi Harbor A Near-Hidden Island Gem
The first time I saw Kamari Beach – its black sand and a walkway lined with cafe after cafe as far as the eye could see – I remarked at how lively the place must be at its peak in July.
As it were, it was mid-May and was as silent as a submarine.
But when I went back a couple years later in July, it was much the same. I had expected it to be full of life, activity, people splashing about in the water, a beach full of European girls suntanning their exposed breasts and the cafes rocking with backpackers.
So I changed my location to a much better beach place on Santorini. The funny thing is, this place is not a beach at all.
It’s Amoudi, a small harbor where you lay out not on black (or red; Santorini has that, too) sand but on rocks.
On an island full of beautiful spots, Amoudi may be the most beautiful of them all. It’s a rocky point at the bottom of a cliff, just below Oia.
There are people about, but it’s not crowded and it’s not loud with pumping music, which is a pretty nice combination of things.
After a night out in Fira, it’s good to have a quiet resting place but with enough people around to remind you that you’re in one of the world’s top social destinations.
Sure, at Amoudi you have no sand in which to to stretch out and must work your body into odd contortions to be comfortable on the rocks, but it has the compensating virtue of having the best water in Santorini.
It’s calm, crystal clear, cool and refreshing. You can swim in the little harbor or the area between the edge of Santorini and a large rock.
People also jump off a cliff, as they do at Kamari.
And when you get hungry or crave a beer, you plop down in a chair at one of the tiny waterside tavernas and have fresh-caught seafood. The food is literally right off the boat and onto the grill.
Beers are delivered by a shuffling old Greek guy who takes as long to get a beer as it does you to drink it.
Thus satisfied, you then go back to your place among the rocks and eventually for another swim.
All this sure beats Kamari. In fact, Amoudi is the best daytime destination on Santorini.